Sloppy Mechanics

starting the BBK on the Chevelle

Mon, 08 Mar 2010 23:02:06 -0500

i also started on the BBK (big brake kit).

i dont have rotors yet because im a broke ass, but i go the caliper bracket mounted up, and caliper on with wheel to just check things out.

ill only show a few pics of it as i want to create a write up. i did this because i was bored pretty much.

More Nitrous Install in the Chevelle

Mon, 08 Mar 2010 22:55:28 -0500

little update..

got the nitrous feed line ran.

need to get a grommet and my fitting.

all thats left is fuel feel line, and wire the bottle warmer. i are getting confused with the damn relay haha.

Vinnys F3 Camaro, new paint for a new season

Sat, 06 Mar 2010 20:46:04 -0500

some new paint, and some tweaks for this 7.70 sec street car.

frank, viny and the team at psi motorsports are looking for 7.50s on this tremec true street car this year...

Part 3 - Suspension Obsession

Thu, 04 Mar 2010 00:23:28 -0500

Call me naive, but I can say I was officially bitten by the FFF bug. I typically look at everything on forums as an example; that is, not as a 'how to' but more of an informal source of information that I can use towards fixing/improving my car. I don't mean to sound any more arrogant that I usually am, but I'm pretty adept around cars -- I can essentially do anything (this side of rebuilding transmissions, screw them) and everything I want with my car.

So while looking for a way to improve the structural rigidity of my cheap japanese car's tinker toy subframe, I came across a thread about foam filling it. Now, I've seen such things before, typically in regard to rockers, or inner unibody voids, but never a subframe. Much like any car of this configuration, the subframe is a nicely formed/stamped piece of metal that is hollow. Regardless of it being firmly mounted to the chassis, it is something that can certainly bend under stress, and at the same time transmit noise from the differential into the cabin. Because of these two issues, the Foam especially appealed to me as it would fill the subframe void, while at the same time increasing surface area, which would help absorb sound/vibration. Double win: Stiff Subframe and I can crank Celine Dion without hearing the driveline of the car.

So I read a few threads, and find out that the US Composites Structural Foam kit, in 8:1 variety was the best bet. The Coast Guard requires 2:1 for their boats, so this 8:1 would be more that sufficient for my subframe (but then again, I don't' plan on taking it swimming). By the 'members' comments it would become very hard, but remain plyable to a degree. This seemed great as it would add a great deal of rigitdy (8 to 1) while not becoming like burnt noodles on the bottom a lasagna pan. I order their 16 lb kit, of 8:1 stiffness and went to town.

Now, back to the FFF aspect of things. They all wrote that it was 'easy' and 'no issues'...which was 9/10 true. What they forgot to mention was the 'mess' that this stuff created. Certainly i knew there would be a mess - something that never/does not bother me. BUT in the same regard, i was not expecting anything like the mess that expanding foam creates. After completing the foam project, I will say the following

1. Make sure you ahve some sort of sheeting down to keep the garage clean. I used big pallett sheets. this stuff makes a mess

2. Ensure you have a heat source on the foam. It says it 'works best' at 80 degrees - they don't like. I had the garage at 70 degrees, and until I directed the kero bullet heater onto it, it didnt' expand as it should

3. Don't make more than you need, as it will foam out and all over. If you only need a little bit, make less. Any 'extra' is just wasted.

All in all, it was a great learning experience, and a worthwhile mod. I suggest anyone to do this, if they have sub frame out of the car. It's a no brainer. Rigidity, sound deadening, and cheap - perfect combo.

The Kit I used

It finds itself eveywhere!

Slight Mess

Looks good here, but look at the joint - amazing stuff!

Luckily it 'breaks off' the subframe easily. Thankfully.

All done, and re undercoated

Thank you cargo edition Maxima!

Aarons Chevelle gets some wheels brakes and juice!

Wed, 03 Mar 2010 23:26:41 -0500

My buddy Aaron is taking big steps with his Chevelle, throwing on a healthy mix of C5 front brakes, and Fbody rear brakes on his 70 Chevelle, and he also bought a nitrous kit from me that is being installed. Here is a shot with the new wheels fitted, No brakes yet.

Part 2 - Suspension Obsession

Mon, 01 Mar 2010 02:43:35 -0500

Well, all is coming back together slowly but surely. The joys of waiting for parts right? Somedays it would be easier to have started with a Fox Body ya know? Oh well, live and Learn.

Assuming everything comes in, I should have this puppy on the ground (well, suspension done) by end of month. Yessss! (Manifold’s back, Housing getting welded, and waiting on some other stuff yet too)

So along with the suspension fun

Traction Arm Cut Down

The factory arms are 8.25 center to center, but after inspection I realized that these FleaBay arms were 8.5 center to center. I ended up removing .75 of an inch off, that way I have some play inwards yet too. I used a simple die grinder with a hose clamp around the shaft to keep me straight. The inner adjustments are LONG so if you hack an inch off, no worries, as you could still make 9” damn near total length.

The ladies seem to like 8” long as the total length, so I figured the same for m for my traction arms too. This should really help out my toe curves under compression.

Modified Godspeed FLCA

Nothing like making gold out of turds right? Well being that I’m to cheap (aka: can’t find the balls in me) to buy some of the 500/600 dollar arms out there (I’m not JDM tyte, whatever), I decided to follow user Def’s Guide on Nissan Road Racing Forums

Pressed the stock junk out

QA1 Left, Ebay Right (rod end)

QA1 Right, Ebay Left (spherical bearing)

Refreshment Time. 2008 Weyerbacher Blasphemy in my Shawnee Craft Glass

Here is the hardware needed. Forgot to take images of the spacer shims though

L to R: Upper Locking Nut, .5” spacer (for roll center correction), Godspeed Spacer (need to drill to .75” ID and then face down to roughly .85 in total height, and then the 3/4” bolt for the ball joint itself.

Fully Contracted, the arms are a little shorter. Not bad. This can allow for more ‘fender room’ potentially.

All done! Don’t mind the chipped paint, I spray bombed them again. MITB quality here. At this point it’s a nice piece

Whew. More to come shortly with the foam filled subframe and total install pictures.

Turbo Mustang Dyno 2-21-10 PSI Motorsports 347ci 78mm Th400

Mon, 22 Feb 2010 18:34:35 -0500

Turbo Mustang Dyno 2-21-10 PSI Motorsports 347ci 78mm Th400

Daves turbo Civic Dyno

Sun, 14 Feb 2010 13:40:45 -0500

doing some investigative dyno testing.

280who 250ftlbs @ 13psi

Suspension Fascination Part 1 (of many)

Wed, 27 Jan 2010 17:22:08 -0500

The 240 (s14) is a fantastic chassis, that really has drastic improvements from it's s13 brother. In the same respect however, Nissan is cheap, and was able to combine parts from all of their RWD machines (300zx, Q45, J30) to essentially make a 'parts bin' rear suspension with the best bits they had available.

This winter I've decided to tackle the aging suspension, and finally address some of the parts I've been wanting to fix up. I hate lists, but I had to make one up!

Assemble a real suspension (Koni 8611, Richards Custom Housings, Ground Control Coilver setup, etc etc)
Poly Bushings in all mounts, and grease fittings
New Subframe Bushings (milled lower)
Box in Lower Arms
Create my own Power brace, in conjunction with a Jonnie Fraz Tension Brace
New FLCA with QA1 bearings (roll center correction
Extra Capacity Diff Cover
Front Mounted Steering Cooler
New Rear Traction Arms
etc etc etc

Lets face it, it's a nice car, but it's an old car. Some things needed to be addressed, and now was the time to do it!

So here are some quick pics of what I've done so far :D

Jonnie Fraz Tension Brace:

http://www.codyace.com/albums/jonnie_fraz_tension_brace/IMG_6212.sized.jpg

J30 Rear Differential Cover, Extra Capacity, Finned for cooling

http://www.codyace.com/albums/album190/cover_02.sized.jpg

http://www.codyace.com/albums/album190/cover_01.sized.jpg

Ebay Rear Traction Arms

The Spherical apperas teflon lined, good enough for me! For 50 bucks, you can't go wrong :D It's a shame they coat these in RICEY/RACER Red paint. I painted the main arms and left the bearings ends alone...the'll be coverd up in the subframe anyway. I had to trim these down ¾ of an inch in order to get to the desired 7 7/8” distance or 8” distance. These things were actually longer than factory, which would provide for a terrible toe curve.

http://www.codyace.com/albums/album58/traction_01.sized.jpg

http://www.codyace.com/albums/album58/traction_02.sized.jpg

Milled Rear Subframe Bushings (As nice as SPL parts are, aluminum is just tooo hardcore for me!)

These installed very easily, but actually getting the bushings out of the subframe was a mofugga. Torches, sawzalls, and finesse (force) won this battle.

http://www.codyace.com/albums/rear_subframe_bushing/IMG_6289.sized.jpg

http://www.codyace.com/albums/rear_subframe_bushing/IMG_6287.sized.jpg

There will be more to come with this pig, but this is a start. Boxed arms, and custom made FLCA images to come!

Frank starting to build his green racecar

Mon, 25 Jan 2010 19:23:52 -0500

frank has started mocking up his big block chevy racecar