Sloppy Mechanics

starting the BBK on the Chevelle

i also started on the BBK (big brake kit).

i dont have rotors yet because im a broke ass, but i go the caliper bracket mounted up, and caliper on with wheel to just check things out.

ill only show a few pics of it as i want to create a write up. i did this because i was bored pretty much.

More Nitrous Install in the Chevelle

little update..

got the nitrous feed line ran.

need to get a grommet and my fitting.

all thats left is fuel feel line, and wire the bottle warmer. i are getting confused with the damn relay haha.

Part 3 - Suspension Obsession

Call me naive, but I can say I was officially bitten by the FFF bug. I typically look at everything on forums as an example; that is, not as a 'how to' but more of an informal source of information that I can use towards fixing/improving my car. I don't mean to sound any more arrogant that I usually am, but I'm pretty adept around cars -- I can essentially do anything (this side of rebuilding transmissions, screw them) and everything I want with my car.

So while looking for a way to improve the structural rigidity of my cheap japanese car's tinker toy subframe, I came across a thread about foam filling it. Now, I've seen such things before, typically in regard to rockers, or inner unibody voids, but never a subframe. Much like any car of this configuration, the subframe is a nicely formed/stamped piece of metal that is hollow. Regardless of it being firmly mounted to the chassis, it is something that can certainly bend under stress, and at the same time transmit noise from the differential into the cabin. Because of these two issues, the Foam especially appealed to me as it would fill the subframe void, while at the same time increasing surface area, which would help absorb sound/vibration. Double win: Stiff Subframe and I can crank Celine Dion without hearing the driveline of the car.

So I read a few threads, and find out that the US Composites Structural Foam kit, in 8:1 variety was the best bet. The Coast Guard requires 2:1 for their boats, so this 8:1 would be more that sufficient for my subframe (but then again, I don't' plan on taking it swimming). By the 'members' comments it would become very hard, but remain plyable to a degree. This seemed great as it would add a great deal of rigitdy (8 to 1) while not becoming like burnt noodles on the bottom a lasagna pan. I order their 16 lb kit, of 8:1 stiffness and went to town.

Now, back to the FFF aspect of things. They all wrote that it was 'easy' and 'no issues'...which was 9/10 true. What they forgot to mention was the 'mess' that this stuff created. Certainly i knew there would be a mess - something that never/does not bother me. BUT in the same regard, i was not expecting anything like the mess that expanding foam creates. After completing the foam project, I will say the following

1. Make sure you ahve some sort of sheeting down to keep the garage clean. I used big pallett sheets. this stuff makes a mess

2. Ensure you have a heat source on the foam. It says it 'works best' at 80 degrees - they don't like. I had the garage at 70 degrees, and until I directed the kero bullet heater onto it, it didnt' expand as it should

3. Don't make more than you need, as it will foam out and all over. If you only need a little bit, make less. Any 'extra' is just wasted.

All in all, it was a great learning experience, and a worthwhile mod. I suggest anyone to do this, if they have sub frame out of the car. It's a no brainer. Rigidity, sound deadening, and cheap - perfect combo.

The Kit I used

It finds itself eveywhere!

Slight Mess

Looks good here, but look at the joint - amazing stuff!

Luckily it 'breaks off' the subframe easily. Thankfully.

All done, and re undercoated

Thank you cargo edition Maxima!

Aarons Chevelle gets some wheels brakes and juice!

My buddy Aaron is taking big steps with his Chevelle, throwing on a healthy mix of C5 front brakes, and Fbody rear brakes on his 70 Chevelle, and he also bought a nitrous kit from me that is being installed. Here is a shot with the new wheels fitted, No brakes yet.

Part 2 - Suspension Obsession

Well, all is coming back together slowly but surely. The joys of waiting for parts right? Somedays it would be easier to have started with a Fox Body ya know? Oh well, live and Learn.

Suspension Fascination Part 1 (of many)

• Assemble a real suspension (Koni 8611, Richards Custom Housings, Ground Control Coilver setup, etc etc)
• Poly Bushings in all mounts, and grease fittings
• New Subframe Bushings (milled lower)
• Box in Lower Arms
• Create my own Power brace, in conjunction with a Jonnie Fraz Tension Brace
• New FLCA with QA1 bearings (roll center correction
• Extra Capacity Diff Cover
• Front Mounted Steering Cooler
• New Rear Traction Arms
• etc etc etc

Frank starting to build his green racecar

frank has started mocking up his big block chevy racecar

Frank starting work on another true street car

a 347ci with a 106mm turbo.

a few more mods on steves EVO

aps twin chamber blow off valve and sloppy tagged strut bar, getting tuned soon.

Work on Ryans Nova

stopped by my friend ryans today to check out some of the work he is doing to his nova, installing a 6l iron LSX motor, 4l80e trans, and a home made turbo kit. today he cleaned up and powder coated the intake manifold he has, and set it on top to see how it looks.

Steve C's Exhaust Install

all 3 inch stainless AMS Greddy Evo exhaust. nice piece! installed very easy no problems!

APS TT Z06

I stopped up at franks today to check out an 2008 Z06 that they installed a APS twin turbo kit on, the fit and finish of this kit, and quality of the parts are amazing, looks like everything belongs there from the factory, really amazing.

Video with Music

EGR blockoff and boost gauge

blocked off the EGR today in coreys TDI, so the intake wouldnt get gummed up, and so that it would get better mileage. also added a boost gauge that we have had laying around for a while. 0-15psi, it pegs this thing pretty good sometimes haha.

donovans control arms

stock upper and lower control arms were shot on the yellow notch, so we threw on some summit specials and welded the tq boxes up

daves sloppy nitrous S2k

my friend dave drove up from jersey today, to finish his nitrous install, get a bottle fill and a dyno tune all on a sunday morning haha.

ive been trying to convince him for a while to use nitrous, he didnt want to spend thousands on a turbo kit, just wanted a bit more for the track and for fun, sloppy mechanics hooked him up!

twin turbo ls2 GTM

intresting to say the least, i cant wait to see what kind of power this car puts down

In Rust, We Trust...

clean plugs, dialed in the wideband voltage table to match correctly, idling great at 950, starting hot and cold, everything checked over 2x, gotta tighten the rockers a wee bit more and then take her out for some driving!

Just Say No kiddies! - The 240 has developed a Meth addiction

Just Say No kiddies! - The 240 has developed a Meth addiction

In a joint combination of being lazy, being lazy, and being lazy (ha), I finally go around to getting the water injection/meth kit installed on the car early this summer. I've had the ECU tuned for it for 3 years, and had nothing but issues with the Aquamist kit. Don't get me wrong, the Aquamist (www.aquamist.co.uk) kit is nice...but as a standalone, it leaves a lot to be desired. Metric hose sizes, oddball fitings, and BSP pitch thread. Cool if I was in Europe, but I'm in USA (Team America), so it's a headache to say the least when you need to modify stuff to make it all work.

If I was going to run a complete standalone Aquamist kit, that's one thing...as hands down their systems are the best, and most integrated you can buy...but if you're using a standalone setup with your own ECU control, The Snow Performance (www.snowperformance.com) (or Labonte, or Devils own...they all use the same shurflo pump) kit is half the cost, and has *almost* everything needed for install -- by almost I mean, if you mount the pump in the engine bay you'll be fine...but if you mount it in the trunk (which 90% of users do), you'll need to order the additional solenoid to prevent siphoning/keep pump prime.

I purchased the kit from Summit Racing (PN: SNO-20001 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SNO-20001/?image=large) and also need to purchase the Snow Performance Electronic Solenoid (PN: SNO-40060  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SNO-40060/) as well. As before, Snow recommends the Solenoid to prevent vacuum siphoning from the rear of the car (as the nozzle is mounted lower than the tank/pump) and also keeps good prime. The Solenoid is super easy to install, just use the same power wire as you have going to the pump (as you want both on at the same time) and ground it wherever is clever. To easy! It is controlled through my Jim Wolf Technology ECU (www.jimwolftechnology.com). All you need to do is install it according to their directions, put in a switch (to turn it on /off) and you're set. Parameters are WOT, and 4000 RPM threshold. Nice and easy. Clark's a guru, so it works perfect obviously.

Being that I decided on mounting it in the trunk, I contemplated how to package it as nicely as possible. There's about as much room for half a dead body in the trunk, so with my Nissan repair toolkit, and detail bag, space was at a premimum. I decided to mount it on the passenger side behind the tailamp, as this gave me the most room, and I was out of the way of the lame trunk hinges that you smash your vacation bags with. I made a handly little bracket and install box to hold it all togther. The welding was shitty because I forgot to turn the gas on for the spool gun, but I had it hot as fuck, and used decent aluminum stock, so it worked nice. Being that the tank would be full of fluid, I decided to also bracket the back to the car itself...help keep some of the stress on the crappy welds down. I'm sure some smart ass ME guy would tear up my design, but it's solid and works; Sloppy Mechanics.

As far as mixture is concerned, I use genuine high grade awesome rare BUG JUICE. Haha yes, good ole 1.50 for a gallon of the blue goo. Don't get anything with rain x in it, or de icer... just get the regular blue stuff. Be sure you read the bottle...all you want is water, and alcohol/methanol. If it's got anything else in there, like corn syrup or anything else unpronouncable or unspellable, leave it be. Simply put, the cheaper shit is the better stuff! Now before anyone looses their mind, IT WORKS JUST FUCKIN FINE. Could more power be seen with a pure meth/distilled water mix? Possibly - but the entire point of this kit is to be cheaper than race gas, and more available. When you're out playing fast and the furious at 3 AM, and need to refill, you can bet your ass that the Quicky Mart won't have a tank of Meth out back ya know?!?! If you're building a street car, then keep street parts in it! Even pure distilled water will work fine in this instance as well (or tap water, whatever), but the blue goo has that hint of alcy in it, which is nice.

Lastly, for the FFF's who think water injection is a bandaid = sit on it! My car is tuned on 93. I run in the limites of 93. The meth is just a proactive method to prevent detonation in the car at track. Can racegas work too? Yea...but remember when the car is idleing, or you go fill up at lunch, or you're waiting on grid....you're wasting that 8 dollar a gallon. I'm not saying 'oh man, go run 28 psi on a t2 flanged turbo with meth, who needs race gas' - that's stupid to me (although many do that with great success). I say, tune it for 93, and then add the meth for safety. It's certainly not hurting power ya know? Maybe run a psi or more, but that's it.

Here is the kit installed. Pump directly underneath. I ran the water line out through a plug in the trunk, and then along the passenger frame rail where the gas/brake lines are. It then goes up into the fenderwell to the Solenoid, then into the intercooler pipe. Sneaky? To a sense...I just like to keep it clean.

Here are two views from the top:

And here is where the solenoid is mounted (the other 3 bolts are fo rmy oil filter relocation bracket, don't mind them). I used one existing 'threaded' hole, but felt it needed too. Self tapper did the trick.

It works great, and has no issues. Big thanks to Clark @ Jim Wolf Technology for making a kickass ECU that controls this feature without hiccup or issue. I'm glad I don't listen to the FFF's who dog on Wolf ECU's for being rich and shitty and uber rich, and whatnot...if I did, I'd be putzing around with some Apexi Nonsense on a street car. Call me lame, but I prefer turn key kick ass.

nitrous on the ventura

installed a quick bar and plate kit on the ventura, with a WOT switch and thats it, 175 jets, hits great! dyno tuning to come.

converter for the ventura!

installed a 3000 nitrous stall in the ventura today at timmys shop, ready to install the nitrous!